Iron Heart does not use formaldehyde in the production of any of our garments. Formaldehyde is widely used in the garment industry to make clothing smell “fresh” and to help suppress the chance of mildew forming on the clothes during storage and shipping. It is a known skin irritant with possible links to cancer.
Green on the outside
Indigo at heart
Raw Denim (by “raw” we mean the fabric has gone through no post-weave processing at all) – raw denim is sometimes referred to as “loom-state”.
Always soak before wearing, not only does this shrink the raw denim to size, it also beds in the constructional stitching, lessening the possibility of a stitching problem (e.g. crotch blowout). Soak inside-out for an hour or so in a bathtub or large sink of hot water and drip dry. The more you agitate the garment, the more likely you are to get all the shrinkage out of the fabric. If you cannot drip dry, soak up the excess water with an old towel and lie flat on a clothes rack to dry.
We currently stock the following raw denim items: NONE AT PRESENT (but watch this space).
Extra Heavy Selvedge (XHS) 25oz Denim
Our XHS denim is sanforized but the jeans are unwashed, so there is a little shrinkage to be expected (but not as much as a raw denim). If your XHS jeans start out as a good, snug fit then you can either soak them and go through a bit of pain, or wear them for a while until they stretch out a little before washing them (using the washing guidelines immediately below).
Washing Sanforized Denim and Pre-Soaked Raw Denim (does not need soaking before wearing)
1. Turn garment inside-out
2. Hand wash, or machine wash* on relatively short cycle (max 40°C/100°F) with slow or no spin
3. Shake/stretch item to ensure no creases before drip drying or drying flat on clothes rack
4. Do not tumble dry (this is likely to cause shrinkage and white marks)
Washing SB, SBG Denim, Cotton Duck
1. Turn garment inside-out
2. Hand wash in bathtub or large sink, or make garment wet before putting in washing machine*
3. Use a liquid vegetable soap (powder and flakes are more likely to leave residue)
4. Wash on a gentle cycle
5. DO NOT use the spin cycle (this is very important)
6. After washing, use a towel to soak up the extra water
7. Drip-dry or lie flat on a clothes rack to dry
8. Do not tumble dry (this is likely to cause shrinkage and white marks)
Cotton Flannel or Chambray Shirts, Cotton Whipcord (Unlined), T-Shirts and Sweatshirts/Hoodies
These can be washed on a regular machine* cycle, (max 40°C/100°F). To avoid shrinking, DO NOT tumble dry – hang or lie garments flat to dry and press if required. Cotton Whipcord alpaca lined deck jackets and vests are dry-clean (with petroleum solvent) only.
Primaloft® lined garments can be washed on a regular machine* cycle, (max 40°C/100°F) and, provided the outer shell is synthetic, can be tumble dried on a low heat setting.
Leather Jackets, Shirting, Wesco® Boots and Accessories
All leather garments should be hung correctly, stored in well-aired locations and not crushed. Never store leather garments, boots or accessories near a direct heat source such as a radiator, fire, hot water tank (airing cupboard) etc. or in view of direct sunlight for any prolonged periods. Exposure to high heat sources or sunlight will dry out and potentially discolour leather. A good quality leather nourishing cream will help to keep leather supple and probably only needs application once or twice a year, it will also have light cleaning properties. We stock a number of leather care products for our footwear and other leather products. You don’t have to use any leather treatment or waterproofing on deerskin or horsehide, it simply isn’t necessary.
Cowhide is a tough leather with a very supple feel and should not require any breaking in. Generally black or brown cowhide garments will not show up marks easily so they are pretty easy to care for. If your jacket gets wet, wipe off the surface moisture with a clean dry towel and hang it up in a well ventilated area, but not too near a direct heat source. Let it dry naturally. If you get oil or grease on your garment then put some flour or talcum powder on the stain, leave until the following day, wipe the majority of the powder away with a clean cloth and use a damp cloth to remove any residue.
Horsehide is an extremely tough leather and will require some breaking in. This leather is packed with waxes and oils in the tanning process and like any wax it stiffens when cold. Warmth from wearing the jacket will soften the hide so it’s pliable and comfortable. Treating horsehide is easy: do nothing, absolutely nothing. Be tough, wear it and love it! If unworn for sometime, horsehide can show a “bloom” of white on its surface, this is just the wax used in the tanning process, it can be rubbed off with a dry cloth.
Deerskin is the softest and most supple of all of the leathers, it can even be put in the washing machine, if you’re brave enough (we’re a bit too scared). It is happy being immersed in water and will soften up and retain its shape once dry. It is therefore the easiest leather to clean (follow the cleaning guidelines for cowhide) but be careful of exposing light coloured deerskin to dark coloured clothing (such as indigo jeans) as this may cause the garment to take on unwanted colour.
It is always best to have clean and dry, non oily hands when handling rough-out garments. If you should get caught out in the rain it should be fine for a short period if untreated, and the garment should be allowed to dry naturally i.e. do not place it over heaters or radiators. Once the garment is fully dried a light brush with a high quality soft clothes brush may be needed. Soft cleaning sponges can be used where marks appear and a light brushing using a soft bristle clothes brush can be used to reduce/remove marks. When caring for rough-out footwear, remove any dirt from the surface of the boot with a bristle brush and use a suede eraser to remove any marks. Then, using the bristle brush, scrub the area thoroughly. Suede protectors can be used to maintain protection.